Using a cheap brake pipe flaring tool,bleeding brakes.

These kits (below) which I sell on ebay and on my web site are suitable for copper based brake tubing only,they will not handle mild steel pipe,but given the speed at which steel pipe rusts it is a waste of time using it unless originality is a must.
Copper tubing can be damaged by movement or vibration which can work harden it so it becomes brittle and snaps it should be supported every nine inches or so.

The pipe must be cut square (preferably with a tube cutter) and be free of burs.Place the flare nut on the pipe.I found for normal 3/16 O.D brake pipe it was best to leave about 3/16 inch protruding from the holder.The wing nuts should be done up tight to grip the pipe and the former placed in the end.When forming the flare check the assembly is kept square and use a smear of brake fluid as a lubricant.This should form a single flare.To form a double flare then use the pointed end of the ram screw with lubricant to press down the centre of the flare.It makes sense to experiment a few times with scrap pieces of pipe to gain confidence.

If the flare appears OK fit it on the vehicle without fully tightening it,remove and check the flared section seems to be fitting OK.Check carefully for leaks after final assembly whilst holding pressure on the brake pedal.

Air unlike brake fluid or water is compressible which is why athe brake pedal moves further and feels spongy when new brake  pipes are fitted.The process of removing the air is called bleeding.As a general rule when bleeding brakes on older cars start at the wheel the greatest distance from the master cylinder and work back,ending with the closest wheel.I sell vacuum and pressure bleeders but the old bit of pipe and a jam jar method works for me..